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Geregistreerd op: 19 Apr 2023
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 Geplaatst: 19-04-2023 11:27:21 Onderwerp: Jacob & Co Pioneer Tourbillon PI422.20.AB.AB.A |
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Jacob & Co. presents the Bugatti Chiron blue sapphire crystal timepiece with exceptional clarity and color
A case made entirely of sapphire crystal is one of the top achievements of contemporary fine watchmaking. Few watchmakers are able to produce fully transparent cases made entirely of sapphire crystal, and even fewer are willing to spend a lot of time and money to produce such a case. Jacobs & Co. is one of the few. The Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire Crystal is the culmination of several months of preparatory work, starting with developing a method of adapting the unique design of the Bugatti Chiron case to the sapphire crystal. After developing the design and manufacturing techniques, months of material processing, advanced machining and hand polishing resulted in a case that showcases the best of the 578 hand-decorated and hand-assembled parts of the JCAM37 hand-wound movement. every component. This includes the exclusive fully automatic engine suspended within the case. Just creating the manufacturing program required years of development and continued continuous improvement.
technological innovation
The sapphire used for the case is synthetic, made of aluminum oxide and powdered inside. This powder is heated to a temperature of 2,200 degrees Celsius. This causes the alumina to crystallize into rough sapphire fragments. It is important that the material does not melt, but forms a sinter on the base and solidifies immediately. Add layers of this material until carrot-shaped pieces form. From there the sapphire is shaped into blocks through a proprietary process.
To create the color, manufacturers add a proprietary combination of rare earth elements, metals and other minerals in a process called "doping." But to get the full case of dark blue, more agents need to be added. This increases the chance of the sapphire crystal losing its chemical stability. It's a balancing act, and sometimes the process is repeated multiple times until the right shade is created, adding to the cost of manufacturing.
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The finished block of sapphire is then cut to the dimensions that will become the body of the watch. The real challenge starts with shaping the block of wood into the Chiron case. In the beginning, this process was automated. The process, already difficult, is all the more challenging thanks to the unique tonneau-shaped Chiron case measuring 57.8mm x 44.4mm. Rather than a single surface, it is composed of a variety of geometric surfaces, including cylindrical, spherical and curved shapes, as well as a horseshoe-shaped end that replicates the iconic Bugatti grille.
Then there is the hardness of sapphire. It has a Mohs hardness of 9. Few materials are harder than it, including diamond, which has a size 10. Therefore, diamond cutting and polishing tools are used to create the case.
The most important step in the process is polishing. This creates the smoothness and transparency of sapphire. Due to the delicate operation and numerous steps, it needs to be done manually. Each case requires 80 to 120 hours of polishing. However, there are also the caseback, the top, the three crowns, the horseshoe-shaped Bugatti grille and other parts, all individually cut and polished to exact dimensions and the same transparency. Every shape of every piece has a different polishing process. The polished case exterior and interior have different angles. But quality, including transparency, must be consistent. In addition, as the case becomes smoother, the craftsman must gradually reduce the roughness of the diamond polishing tool.
Hazards exist throughout the polishing process. Fragments can be separated. Even with extreme hardness, sapphire can break because the harder the material, the less elastic it is. Additionally, there may be "optical distortion", which are basically streaks and other optical inclusions, usually due to the use of substandard tools and poor polishing techniques.
If any of these things happen, the months-long process starts all over again.
If all goes to plan, you'll have a sleek, perfectly transparent case in colored sapphire that showcases every aspect of the Bugatti Chiron's movement, including its groundbreaking engine and one-minute tourbillon.
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watch concept
The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron blue sapphire crystal timepiece is the continuation of a collection that combines the DNA of the supercar manufacturer and the luxury jewelry and watch brand. The idea of creating a sapphire case for the watch was to provide a full view of all 578 hand-decorated and hand-assembled components of the JCAM37 hand-wound movement.
This includes an exclusive full-scale replica of the Bugatti W16 engine. The engine is suspended inside the case by four struts that look like Chiron shock absorbers. Activated on demand, the 'engine' comes to life with 16 pistons pumping and two turbochargers spinning. Other details of this extraordinary movement include a rotating 60-second flying tourbillon, which sits on a 30-degree slope and is visible through a replica of the horseshoe-shaped Bugatti grille.
inspiration
The Bugatti Chiron collection began with the vision of Jacob & Co. and Bugatti to recreate the visceral feel of the iconic Bugatti W16 engine in a timepiece. Everything about the watch is designed to pay tribute to the Bugatti Chiron supercar.
The unique streamlined case, which is difficult to reproduce with sapphire crystal, was inspired by the smooth lines of the Chiron. The "engine block" was designed to replicate the Bugatti W16 engine. It runs on demand and shows off with beautiful engine running. This is the first time a fully functional car engine animation has appeared in a luxury wristwatch. The movement is suspended by screws designed to replicate shock absorbers. Even the power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock has been specifically designed to replicate the generic gas pump symbol. The back of the watch is designed to look like a car dashboard, with two crowns and a pusher that winds the watch, sets the time and activates the engine animation.
create, invent and build
The partnership between Bugatti and Jacob & Co. began in 2019 with the aim of creating unique, never-before-seen timepieces that remain true to the spirit of both companies while elevating watchmaking to unimaginable heights.
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Blue Sapphire Crystal Technical Specifications
Reference BU210.80.AM.UA.BBRUA – Unique
move
Movement: Manufactured by Jacob&Co. Manual winding JCAM37
Size: 41.7x36mm
Height: 15.60mm
Components: 578
Gems: 51
Anti-vibration system: Incabloc
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 21'600 beats/hour (3 Hz)
Function:
hours, minutes
1-minute tourbillon cage inclined at 30° (top set with diamonds)
"W16 Engine" in a sapphire block
Animation on demand (the pusher on the right) creates the rotation of the piston and crankshaft
Power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock
case
Dimensions: 57.8×44.4mm
Height: 21.5mm
Material: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case back: sapphire crystal
Crown and Pushers: Sapphire crystal and 18K rose gold
Water resistance: 30m (3atm)
dial
EB logo; blue indices; rose gold hands with blue tips
Winding and Time Setting:
Left stem: time setting
Central axis: movement winding (clockwise) and animation (counterclockwise)
Strap and buckle
Strap: Rubber
Buckle: 18K rose gold and titanium deployment clasp |
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